by Andrea Downing
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| the Moulton Barn |
Anyone
who’s ever seen advertising, a calendar, or just about any collection of photos
of Wyoming, has seen the Moulton Barn—it is, apparently, the most photographed
barn in the country. It stands in Mormon Row in Grand Teton National Park.
Mormon Row is a four mile stretch of homesteads and ranch houses just southeast
of Black Tail Butte in Jackson Hole valley.
Here are solid, but decaying, remnants of a community that once thrived,
was vibrant with life, if not exactly prosperous by today’s way of
understanding. The National Park leaves its historic buildings to decay
naturally, which means, with time, they’ll be gone. But for now, the buildings stand as a
monument to what people do to secure a better life, to survive, perhaps also a
monument to what really matters in life.
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| Map of Mormon Row drawn by Craig Moulton, courtesy of Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum |
The first
homesteaders came from Rockland, Idaho, and stopped in Victor before they
crossed the Teton Pass. Nowadays, we have a road, steep and full of hair-pin
bends, yet they crossed the pass in wagons.
They camped on Fish Creek in Wilson, where I now reside part-year,
before they moved on to make their claim for 160 acres under the Homestead Act,
paying their $21 claim fee. Some would
secure further acres under the Desert Land Act, which required them to irrigate
the land.
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| Thomas Alma & Lucille Moulton Homestead, ca.1910 |
They
arrived in July, too late to plow or plant. Water and shelter were their first
concerns. They dug irrigation ditches, and dug down 120ft. or so for wells. This
was the time to dig to be sure water would be available in summer—when water
would be at its lowest. Then they built log cabins with a dirt roof, the lodge
pole pines coming from nearby forests. And they went to Flat Creek, where hay
was available for anyone who wanted it, cut it by hand, and also planted an early
maturing oat, ready in 90 days. They plowed through the sagebrush with either a
hand plow or a sulky plow. The soil underneath was fertile, and the resultant
burning sage made an evening’s entertainment.
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| John & Bartha Moulton Homestead, ca. 1910 |
They called
the community Grovont. Most of them were
ranchers, but the cattle they raised were not for their own consumption. Their
subsistence depended on elk meat, hung in winter and left to freeze until they
wanted it, and hogs killed and cured in summer, then wrapped in newspapers to
keep the flies away. Huckleberries were another staple along with garden
vegetables they could grow in the short season:
rutabagas and carrots predominated. The cattle were sold to raise money
for other necessities; the steers were driven to Victor, Idaho, put on the train
for Omaha and sales. Since the price of
a steer could vary as much as between $29 and $600, income was not
guaranteed. Some families traded hay,
eggs or chickens, oats or cream for butter down in the town of Jackson. The
Moultons had a dairy and sold milk to the local dude ranches. In addition,
there was trapping, and one could earn about $50 a month from coyotes.
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| Andrew & Ida Chambers Homestead, ca. 1920 |
So, was
there any recreation in this subsistence-level existence? Of course! The Church was a major center of activity,
not only for services but especially for dances. Everyone danced, and dances were twice a
month at the church (but no drinking or smoking allowed). Still, they lasted until 3 a.m., and there’s a
story about the piano player having to tape his bleeding fingers. Christmas and Halloween parties were well
attended, political rallies, weddings and harvest celebrations, and concerts
and school plays, too. Irrigation
ditches became ice skating rinks in winter, and the butte afforded skiing and
sledding, while in summer there was swimming in nearby water holes.
In 1925,
the Gros Ventre mud slide on Sheep Mountain damned the Gros Ventre River east
of nearby Kelly, Wyoming, and caused a lake to be formed. Two years later, the damn failed, flooding
Kelly and killing six people, yet uncovering a warm spring that never
freezes. The Mormons called it ‘The
Miracle Spring’, and they dug ditches to bring the water that would never
freeze to their homesteads year-round. So life went on, improved somewhat. Better houses were ordered from the Sears
Roebuck Catalogue and shipped by rail to Victor, then brought by stage over the
Teton Pass and erected by community effort.
Other new houses were stucco with cement. Out-buildings were built: log barns, granaries, and pump houses. School, originally in someone’s living room
before moving to the Church basement, finally had its own building when someone
donated land. Mail came in by team or sleigh from Jackson or Moran. Kerosene and gas light gave way to
electricity in the 1950s.
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| Thomas Perry Homestead, ca. 1910 |
So, what
happened to this vibrant community? Admittedly, it was at subsistence level,
but the homesteaders had made a conscious choice of the life they wanted, and
this was it. But in the 1950s, the
government started a buy-out of the land that was unproductive. The Snake River Company, with Rockefeller
money behind it, bought up marginal lands, and then moved in on the
homesteaders whose older generation took the money, with life leases permitting
them to stay their lifetimes. John Moulton was the last to close at his death
in 1990. And so, this community became
part of Grand Teton National Park.
Today, the
Church, which served as such a center of community life, serves as the Calico
Pizza, my local restaurant in Wilson, Wyoming.
An earlier version of this post appeared at andreadowning.com in 2014. My sincere thanks to Emily Winters, Director of Archives at the Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum, for her assistance in my research for this article. All photos are author's own.
