What is a Reticule? ~ D. K. Deters

In my new work in process (WIP), the main character carries a reticule when she goes to town. While I’m aware what a reticule is, I wanted to understand its origin because, as we all know, a handbag can tell you a lot about the lady who carries it. I conducted a little research and found several interesting articles.       

First, a reticule is an 18th or 19th century handbag used by women. According to the Online Etymology Dictionary: Reticule "a lady's small handbag," originally of network, later usually of any woven material, from French réticule (18c.) "a net for the hair, a reticule," from Latin reticulum "a little net, network bag.”

As women’s fashion evolved in the late 18th century, the shift from large, layered skirts gave way to a form-fitting silhouette. Women needed a place to store their possessions that wouldn’t cause their clothes to bulge. The reticule emerged as a practical solution and functioned perfectly as an exterior pocket.

              

According to the 1831 American Girl’s Book: or Occupation for Play Hours, the bag has many styles: circular, basket, three-sided, pocket book, plaited, pointed, halbert-shaped, dimity, and braided.

The sizes vary, but they are typically small, measuring between four and eight inches in width and height. You’ll find reticules made from a variety of materials, such as satin, silk, cotton, linen, velvet, leather, and tapestry. Many embellishments feature embroidery, beading, tassels, and even tortoise shells.

             

These 19^th century design examples show the classic drawstring closure.  The bags, though small and dainty, held an assortment of items a woman might need. Those items included: coins, hairpins, jewelry, a pocket watch, and even smelling salts. If you’re wondering where ladies kept their belongings before bags became popular, they tied pockets around their waists under their dresses. But I digress.

                   

According to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s (The Met), “men critics ridiculed the reticule, claiming that women would overstuff the bags…” Of course, the reticules of yesteryear are nothing compared to the options available now. I think the men back then would have to see the bags today to understand the concept of overstuff. Don’t you?

Two Bits and a Buzzard Dollar ~ D.K. Deters

 As a writer with an interest in historical coins, I’ve always enjoyed the stories behind them. Since my work in progress (WIP) is set in 1881, I’m excited to share some intriguing trivia from the 19^th century about the Seated Liberty quarter and the Morgan silver dollar.

You’ve probably read a Western scene that goes something like this:

“What do I owe ya?” The gunslinger reached into his pocket.

“That’ll be two bits,” the barber said.

But what’s the story behind this simple phrase? The term “two bits” originated from cutting a Spanish silver dollar into eight equal parts called “bits” to make smaller change. So, when the barber in the scene asks for two bits, he’s referring to a quarter.

You’ll still hear this colloquial expression today. My dad used it often, but it didn’t make sense until I delved into its historical context many years later.

By the way, a short bit is a dime. The short bit is less than a bit, which is 12 ½ cents.

To put this in perspective, the 1873 purchasing power of $0.25 is about $6.62 today, according to the CPI Inflation Calculator.

Image credit: National Numismatic Collection, National Museum of American History

Items folks might buy with a quarter from the 1870 Catalogue of Goods:

Sugar per pound    $0.10                    Flour per pound               $0.04

Rice per pound      $0.05                   Coffee per pound              $0.12

Butter per pound   $0.15                    Molasses gallon               $0.15

Personally, I think the Morgan silver dollar is the prettiest coin of all time, but I digress.

George T. Morgan designed the Morgan silver dollar. Lady Liberty is on the obverse. It’s interesting to note that the model, Anna Willess Williams, was a Philadelphia school teacher and philosophical writer. Although she’s given credit for being the model, some speculation remains. Read more about her at:

http://www.acoincollection.com/anna-willess-williams-the-silver-dollar-girl/.

On the reverse, you’ll see a thin eagle with outstretched wings. Many cowboys thought the eagle looked “scrawny” and called it the buzzard dollar. I’ll be using the phrase “buzzard dollar” in my WIP.

The 1887 purchasing power of $1.00 is a whopping $33.22 today, according to the CPI Inflation Calculator.

Here are other items folks might buy from the 1870 Catalogue of Goods:

1 silk parasol                        $1.00

1 lantern                                $1.00

7 yards blue denim               $1.00

6 pairs men’s cotton socks   $1.00

6 pairs Army wool socks      $1.00

3 yards plain cashmere         $1.00

We could only hope to buy three yards of cashmere for $1.00 today.

From Pottery to heirlooms, every woman needed a Trousseau

 The word Trousseau is a collection of linen, pottery, jewelry, pots, pans, and heirlooms boxed away for a maiden's marriage. Often it was the box itself that was called the Trousseau. These boxes held all the hopes and dreams of a young lady as she packed away needed things to bring her new home alive.

In 1877, it was deemed practical for a maiden to have a dozen of everything including linens, quilts, pillowcases, sheets, toweling, table linen, handkerchiefs, painted fans, gloves, slips, pantaloons, corsets, hoops, stockings, and shoes. She might squirrel away jewelry given by her parents and her intended. Along with a years worth of clothing. These items took years to accumulate. Their storage in trunks and decorative boxes are what we call today's hope chests. 

Items embroidered such as pillows, tapestries, pillowcases, and handkerchiefs would be created by hand. Every woman learned to embroider, quilt, and sew. It was considered a helpful skill to elevate her husband in society. He and his family might show off the items the wife would bring to the marriage. Some ladies would place delicate silk embroidery of initials or slogans on intimate apparel, or place their husband's initials on shirts. Before the wedding these items might be placed in the parlor for guest to inspect and marvel at before the wedding. 

If a woman was traveling, she would have to pack the belongs in as few boxes or trunks as possible because of cost. Items might have to be shipped later and there was always worry over robberies. In her small carpet bag, a maiden might carry her jewels and intimate apparel for the wedding night. Thus if a train robbery happened, these items might be over looked of given back out of compassion. Other items such as pottery and kitchen supplies would be boxed and secured from breakage by straw, then placed between quilts for extra protection. A smaller trunk would hold the clothing, shoes, and if a mail order bride - the dress itself along with the letters of correspondence.

A lot depended on bride to be. She often was meeting her intended for the first time. Often never seeing a picture of them. With no family, she was dependent on the grooms family to help her prepare for the event. Imagine the fear if indeed, this groom had embellished his own description or wealth.

 

In the series, Pioneer Brides of Rattlesnake Ridge, these ideas might just bear fruit as a group of authors and myself explore mail order brides in the American West. 

Until next time, 

Nan

The Last Ranger of Fort Henry

wikipedia

 History, as we know it, often leads to unique discoveries. Here lies one. As historical writers, we glory in the mystic of the cowboy. Our heroes are so often bigger than life. Yet, we temper our heroines. Their qualities, though grand, rarely outshine our heroes... 

Sometime - Sometimes history shows us that heroines are far more courageous than we give them credit to be.

In 1782, West Virginia was part of the great state of  Virginia. It was considered the Western Frontier of it's time. In these mountainous areas the Scots and Irish flourished making homes for themselves and their families. They were skilled mountain men and hunters, who often knew the trails as well, if not better than the Native Americans. But encroaching on the livelihood of the Native Americans put them into harms way. The American Revolution would provide an opening in which the Native Americans might win back their hunting grounds.

In actuality, the alliance did two things. First, it raised the hopes that the Native Americans might force the British Government into renewing the treaty that kept settlements from going beyond the Appalachian Mountains. Secondly, for the British, there was hope the Native Americans could best the Colonial Army which the Brits had not been able to accomplish due to the guerilla warfare the Continental Army  used with much success.

The Colonial governments knew their frontier was scarcely protected. They built a line of forts along the trails in hopes that they might temper the raiding parties of the Native Americans and provide protection to the families in the wilderness. But, as Abigail Adams might have admonished, "Don't forget the women."

In 1782, A group of British Rangers and 250 Shawnee warriors besieged a colonial fort named Fort Henry  near what is now known as Wheeling, West Virginia. Forty two men and their families sought refuge behind the palisade walls, The garrison was under the command of Colonel David Sheppard of the Ohio Militia. He took a lesson from the colonial troops in Massachusetts during the early days of the war and hid his gun powder in the cellars of the homes in various locations around the fort. As the siege began, the men stood on the ramparts, fired their weapons, then handed the empty guns down to family members waiting below to reload. In two hours of fighting, many lay dead or dying. Their gun powder began to run out. It seemed all was lost for every man was needed to man positions along the fort.

As the discussion continued, the British and the Shawnee continued to pick off men. One of the women below the rampart was Elizabeth Zane. Her job was to reload her father and her brother's Kentucky rifles along with the men on either side of them. During a volley of shot, her father fell from the ramparts above to her feet, struck dead by a British bullet. Shouts arose for more gun powder. When no one volunteered, the plucky Miss Zane, stood and shouted, "I'll go!"

The commander hesitated.

She pointed out that all the able bodied men were needed at stations. He had no choice but to allow this daring, young woman her chance. 

She slipped from the fort and ran sixty yards to her family home outside the fort's protective walls. Slipped into the basement. The sight of a woman on the run must have startled the  British. They didn't return fire until she ran back cuddling the keg of gun powder in her arms. Needless to say, the fort was saved by her brave actions.

Okay, you may be asking yourself, why are we talking about the American Revolution in a western column. Ah, it is very important to this blog and to all readers of great western novels. Elizabeth's family left  West Virginia after the Revolution was won. They settled in the wilds of Ohio and she raised her family. It was her great grand nephew that learned of her exploits and was so enamored of them that he put them to paper, publishing his first book. Lucky for us, he didn't stop with just his great aunt's story. For the author of Betsy Zane, later to be re-titled The Last Ranger, was none other than Zane Grey one of the greatest fictional, western writers of all times. 

  Zane Grey Photo from Wikipedia

 19th century engraving of Betsy saving the fort

  Today, Wheeling, West Virginia still holds Pioneer Days with Betsy's story. Zanesville Ohio  is named for the family.

Elizabeth Betsy Zane was married twice, bore nine children and is buried in St. Clarksville, Ohio.                                                                        

When studying history... always follow the bread crumbs. 

Until next time, 

Nan O'Berry