Showing posts with label Abilene Kansas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Abilene Kansas. Show all posts

Friday, March 25, 2022

"Wild Bill" Hickok in Abilene, Kansas by Zina Abbott

 
 
Much has been written about James Butler Hickok, better known as Wild Bill Hickok. What I share today covers a little over a year of his life—the time he spent as town marshal of Abilene, Kansas.

To provide a little background about Abilene, Kansas, you might wish to read my previous post, “Early Days of Abilene, Kansas, which you may find by CLICKING HERE.

As a brief outline, Kansas Territory was opened to white American settlement in 1854. In 1856, Timothy F. Hersey staked out a claim on the west bank of Mud creek about two miles north of where it empties into the Smoky Hill river. There, he and his wife, Elizabeth, ran one of two stagecoach relay stations built to serve travelers along the Smoky Hill Trail. A few other businesses developed. Kansas became a state in 1861. 

The Homestead Act of 1862 became effective in 1863, and starting then, but especially after the end of the American Civil War, settlers—mostly farmers—moved into Kansas. Then, the Kansas Pacific (which later became part of the Union Pacific Railroad) built along this same trail. The train reached Abilene in early 1867.

Loading cattle and McCoy's Drovers Cottage

With the coming of the railroad, a man named Joseph McCoy saw the potential in Abilene for establishing a rail head for longhorn cattle driven up from Texas. After purchasing land and building a hotel, a livery, and stockyards to accommodate the Texas drovers, he put the word out. The first cattle were brought up the Chisholm Trail and shipped out of Abilene in September of 1867.


That was when the big trouble began.

  The above 1878 Abilene map shows the development that was already taking place in 1871. The original town was to the left, yellow section, and the saloon district was south of the tracks in the general vicinity of the arrow. Many year-round prostitutes lived in the pink section to the right, south of the tracks.

The cowboys from a state that, for the most part, favored the Confederacy during the recent war, collided with the more established permanent citizens of Abilene, many with Northern roots. The homesteaders, whose domestic cattle often died from diseases brought by the tick-infested long horns, opposed the cattle being brought up from Texas. Like their counterparts in Missouri—who banned cattle drives within that state—they wanted the Texas drovers and their disease-carrying cattle gone. The permanent residents of Abilene opposed the building of saloons—along with the year-round and seasonal prostitutes—that catered to these drovers. A lawless environment plagued the town.

Before Abilene's incorporation in September 1869, no official law enforcement existed in Abilene, Kansas. A town government was formed with Joseph McCoy being elected the first mayor. One of the first items of business was to establish the position of town marshal. A stone jail—the first stone building in Abilene—in spite of being torn down by the Texas cowboys during the first construction attempt—was built.

Candidates locally and as far away as St. Louis, Missouri, were sought. Several, after seeing conditions in the saloon and red-light district of Abilene during cattle season—turned down the position. It was offered to the well-known Tom “Bear River” Smith, who was hired in 1870. He did an effective job of law enforcement until he was murdered—not by Texas drovers, but by two Scotch homesteaders.

Mayor Joseph McCoy recommended hiring James Butler "Wild Bill" Hickok as town marshal. Hickok had acquired the reputation of being the best gunman in the West. On April 15, 1871, he was unanimously chosen marshal at a salary of $150 a month plus twenty-five percent of all fines in arrests made by him.

“Wild Bill” Hickok was described as being about six feet in height and weighing about 175 pounds. He was well-made physically, graceful in movement, constantly alert, and cool while under fire. His brown wavy hair down to his shoulders, piercing gray-blue eyes, aquiline nose, and flowing mustache made him a figure to attract attention. His attire was expensive and showy.

Another physical description of Bill Hickok comes from Libbie Custer, wife of George Armstrong Custer:

“Physically, he was a delight to look upon. Tall, lithe, and free in every motion, he rode and walked as if every muscle was perfection, and the careless swing of his body as he moved seemed perfectly in keeping with the man, the country, the time in which he lived.”

“I do not recall anything finer in the way of physical perfection than Wild Bill when he swung himself lightly from his saddle, and with graceful, swaying step, squarely set shoulders and well poised head…. He was rather fantastically clad, of course, but all that seemed perfectly in keeping with the time and place. He did not make an armory of his waist, but carried two pistols.”

 

"Are you satisfied?" - Published by Harper's New Monthly Magazine, February 1867

It was those two pistols that got Hickok into trouble in Abilene. Some claim the fast draw originated with him. According to W.E. Webb, “His power lies in the wonderful quickness with which he draws a pistol and takes his aim.” His greatest strength was due to his dexterity using both of his pistols at the same time.

 The summer of 1871 brought Abilene a large group of lawless people. Several special officers were appointed to assist Hickok. Among these were James Gainsford, one of the captors of Tom Smith's murderers; James McDonald, who had accompanied Smith to the cabin on his fatal mission; Thomas Carson, a nephew of Kit Carson, the famous scout; "Brocky Jack" Norton, who later served as a peace officer in Ellsworth and Newton; and Mike Williams.

During the summer of 1871, Hickok received a great deal of criticism regarding how he handled law-enforcement issues. Some citizen thought he spent too much time at the Alamo saloon and delegated too much work to his assistants. Some disliked his proneness to resort immediately to the use of firearms in establishing his authority. Those who had respected Tom Smith, who took no part in the immoral practices of the Texans, criticized Hickok’s methods of opening carrying his guns and demonstrating a quick willingness to use them. Although many admired his show of physical courage, they disapproved of him exhibiting the same moral weaknesses of the Texans, although not to excess. 

This is how the Alamo Saloon, where Hickok spent most of his time while in Abilene, is described in the “Kansas Historical Quarterly - Abilene, First of the Kansas Cow Towns” by George L. Cushman:

The Alamo was the most elaborate of the saloons, and a description of it will give an idea of the plan of them all. It was housed in a long room with a forty-foot frontage on Cedar street, facing the west. There was an entrance at either end. At the west entrance were three double glass doors. Inside and along the front of the south side was the bar with its array of carefully polished brass fixtures and rails. From the back bar arose a large mirror, which reflected the brightly sealed bottles of liquor. At various places over the walls were huge paintings in cheaply done imitations of the nude masterpieces of the venetian Renaissance painters. Covering the entire floor space were gaming tables, at which practically any game of chance could be indulged. The Alamo boasted an orchestra, which played forenoons, afternoons, and nights. In the height of the season the saloons were the scene of constant activity. At night the noises that were emitted from them were a combination of badly rendered popular music, coarse voices, ribald laughter and Texan "whoops," punctuated at times by gun shots.

One story involves outlaw John Wesley Hardin, reputed to have killed twenty-seven men, who was in Abilene the same time that Wild Bill Hickok served at city marshal. He arrived at the end of a cattle drive in early 1871. In his autobiography, he claimed to have befriended Hickok.

Hickok knew the man as "Wesley Clemmons", Hardin's alias. He later claimed he did not know Clemmons was a wanted outlaw. He asked Clemmons to hand over his guns and told him to stay out of trouble.

Hardin complied. Hardin alleged that when his cousin, Mannen Clements, was jailed for the killing of two cowhands Joe and Dolph Shadden in July 1871, Hickok – at Hardin's request – arranged for his escape. Whether there is any truth to that claim is unknown. In August 1871, Hickok sought to arrest Hardin for killing Charles Couger in an Abilene hotel "for snoring too loud.” Hardin left Kansas before Hickok could arrest him.

However, that was not the final straw for the citizens of Abilene. The following is from the “Kansas Historical Quarterly - Abilene, First of the Kansas Cow Towns” by George L. Cushman:

The prostitutes from the colony north of town had migrated to Texas street and vicinity. There were ordinances prohibiting their practices within the city limits, but they were ignored. Petitions signed by women and the responsible people of the city were presented to the council asking for the enforcement of the ordinances, but the council was slow to give an ear. In the latter part of June a restricted zone was established on land adjoining the townsite and owned by George Fisher. Here the bawdy houses might be located where "shooting and stabbing and all-night life could be indulged in in full blast."

During the summer of 1871 an undercurrent of hard feelings had developed between Marshal Hickok and some Texans encouraged by Phil Coe and Ben Thompson, proprietors of the Bull's Head saloon. This feud came to a crisis on the evening of October 5. The end of the cattle season was nearing and some Texans were celebrating their departure with a farewell spree on the streets of the city. They began their party on Texas street about sundown. They carried Jake Karatofsky to the Applejack saloon, where he was made to stand treats. This they did to other citizens they happened to find on the streets. They found "Wild Bill" in a boarding house eating his supper. He would have no part in their pranks, but he sent them to the bar of the Novelty theater where they, could get drinks at his expense.

About nine o'clock, while Hickok and his deputy, Mike Williams, were in front of the Novelty theater, a shot was heard around the corner on Cedar street. Bill hurried through the east door of the Alamo saloon and went quickly to the front, asking in a rough manner who had fired the shot. Phil Coe, at the front with pistol in hand, replied that he had shot at a dog. Without further questioning Hickok drew two revolvers and the two exchanged shots. Coe was mortally wounded while Hickok was not hit. Mike Williams, hearing the shooting, hurried around to the front of the saloon to aid the marshal. Bill, without recognizing Williams, shot him twice, and he died almost instantly. Coe lingered for several days and died in great agony.


Cattle being loaded by McCoy's stockyard

There were a lot of high feelings for this incident, both by the Texas cowboys and the city’s citizens. However, developing the land north of the railroad, away from the lawless element south of the tracks had already begun. The sentiment against the cattle trade grew in strength. The cattle season for 1871 was almost at an end.

So was the career of “Wild Bill” Hickok as Abilene’s marshal. He was relieved of his duties less than two months after the accidental shooting.

The accidental death of Deputy Williams was an event that haunted Hickok for the remainder of his life. This incident was the last time Hickok was ever involved in a gunfight.

 


My recently published book, Abilene Gamble, is mostly set in Abilene, Kansas, in the summer of 1871—the same time Hickok served as city marshal. While many books portray Hickok in heroic terms, based on what I learned in my research, I did not. Here is an excerpt:

          From the look on Ollie’s face, Harry could tell he was reluctant to be there. He was no doubt torn between his loyalty to his boss and his friendship with Harry. Once Hickok and Ollie Thompson stood a mere ten feet away, Harry stepped next to Nathan before he turned and greeted them. “Good morning, Marshal Hickok, Deputy Marshal Thompson.” He nodded to the two lawmen before focusing on Hickok. “Kind of early for you to be about, Marshal. We’re not used to the pleasure of your presence in this part of town.”

          Ollie Thompson acknowledged the greeting. “Mr. Bradford. Mrs. Butler. Mrs. Schoenfeld.”

          “Mrs.?” His eyebrows raised, Nathan turned to his sister.

          “I’ll explain later.” Whispering, Stella stared at her feet.

          Marshal Hickok struck a pose Harry guessed was intended to intimidate. “Hear-tell you brought a wanted man in with you this morning, Mr. Bradford. How come he’s not in my jail?”

          “Because he’s my responsibility, Marshal. He’s not wanted in Abilene or in any Kansas town. He and I will be on the train and out of your hair first thing tomorrow.”

          “That’s not how it works.”

          “It’s exactly how it works, Marshal. He’s my capture, I’m taking him in, and I’m the one who has control of him until such time as I turn him over to the police in Indianapolis. I don’t need him in your jail where one of your deputies or their friends can help themselves to him and go after the reward.”

          “I consider that an insult.”

          “No offense to either of you gentlemen, of course, but I can’t control everyone who walks through that jail. I consider putting Mr. Schoenfeld in there a risk I’m not willing to take.”

          “And how did you know about him and the five-hundred-dollar reward, Mr. Bradford?” The marshal drawled out Harry’s name in an insulting manner.

          Harry tried to ignore Stella’s look of dismay. He suspected she blamed herself, since she had trusted him enough to give him the information he needed to find her brother.

          “I didn’t find no wanted poster for him. Mr. Thompson, here, said you were looking through the stack just before you left. Did you take it out of my desk?”

          Harry casually reached into the inside pocket of the trail-dusty vest he had put back on over a clean shirt. He pulled out the crumpled wanted poster and held it out to the Marshal. “Just borrowed it, Marshal. I got all the information I needed off of it, so you can have it back. Might as well toss it, though. Once I return Mr. Schoenfeld to Indianapolis, it won’t be any good, anymore.”

          “I don’t like how you work, Bradford. Never have.”

          “Feeling’s mutual, Marshal. But as long as we stay out of each other’s way, we’ll get along just fine. Once I board the train with my prisoner tomorrow, you won’t have to worry about me for a while.”

          “Your prisoner? I’m the law.”

          “You’re a fast gun hired to maintain order, Marshal, and we both know it. As a member in good standing of the Kansas bar, I’m an officer of the court. I know what I can legally do, and what I can’t.” And I know I’m stretching it to the limit. Harry held his breath as he waited for Hickok’s response.

You may find the book description and purchase link for Abilene Gamble by CLICKING HERE.


 

In addition, I’m pleased to announce that today is release day for Indianapolis Justice. The saga of Harry and Stella, as they seek justice for Nathan, continues. To find the book description and purchase link, Please CLICK HERE.

 

 

 

Sources:

https://www.kshs.org/p/kansas-historical-quarterly-abilene-first-of-the-kansas-cow-towns/12833 ; Cushman, George L.; Kansas Historical Quarterly - Abilene, First of the Kansas Cow Towns. August 1940 (Vol. 9, No. 3), pages 240 to 258. Transcribed by lhn;digitized with permission of the Kansas Historical Society.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wild_Bill_Hickok

https://truewestmagazine.com/wild-bill-truth/

 

Friday, February 25, 2022

Early Days of Abilene, Kansas, by Zina Abbott

 

         For those who read historical Westerns, Abilene is often thought of as a cow town—the end of the Chisholm Trail where long horn cattle was brought up from Texas, loaded onto rail cars, and shipped to the East. However, that is not how the town started.

 Timothy Hersey and Elizabeth Johnson Hersey

         The first white family to take up residence in the immediate vicinity of Abilene was that of Timothy F. Hersey in 1856. He staked out a claim on the west bank of Mud creek about two miles north of where it empties into the Smoky Hill river. 

 

Hersey Cabin ctsy oldabilenetown.org

         When the Butterfield Overland Despatch stage line was being formed at the end of the Civil War, he was given a contract to provide a home station. He provided two log houses and a log stable and corral for horses. He agreed to feed the passengers and employees who came over the trail in the six-horse Concord coaches. Part of his advertisement to west-bound travelers was they would find at his station the "last square meal east of Denver." Food at some of these stations consisted of bacon and eggs, hot biscuits, green tea, coffee, dried peaches and apples, and pies. Beef was served occasionally, as were canned fruits and vegetables.

         The next building in the area was a dwelling known as "the Hotel," owned by C. H. Thompson. It was located opposite Hersey’s station on the east bank of Mud Creek. Thompson also used his business as a way station for the Short Line Stage Company.

         In 1864, a city block east from the creek, W. S. Moon built the Frontier Store. In it, he offered for sale a small stock of widely assorted general merchandise. Mr. Moon also served as the postmaster and register of deeds. His store later served as a meeting place for the sessions of district court. 

 Prairie Dog Town near Abilene, Kansas - 1867

 Away from the trail and in the midst of a prairie dog town was "Old Man Jones' " saloon . Over the years, as emigrants followed the Smoky Hill Trail west, some were attracted by the rich growth of prairie grass on the Smoky Hill river bottom land. They decided to go no farther. From these settlers, about a dozen scattered log houses sprang up on the east side of the creek.

(On this 1859 Kansas map, Dickinson County is outlined in blue)

         In 1860, the counties of Kansas foresaw coming statehood for the territory, and the momentum to organize grew. The community along Mud Creek was part of Dickinson County. The residents recognized the value of living in the county seat. However, to have a chance against the other communities in the county, they knew they had work to do. C. H. Thompson laid out a townsite on his land east of Mud creek. He quickly constructed several makeshift log houses to give it some semblance of a town.

         The community needed a name. Mr. Thompson went to the first inhabitant, Tim Hersey, and asked him to give the new town a name. Mr. Hersey turned the issue over to his wife. Mrs. Hersey found a reference in the first verse of the third chapter of Luke in the Holy Bible which spoke of the "tetrarch of Abilene." She "Abilene," which meant "city of the plains," would be appropriate name, and the decision was made.

A county-seat election was held in the spring of 1861. Union City, Smoky Hill (now Detroit), Newport, and Abilene were all contenders. Abilene, by securing the support of the Chapman creek settlers, won the election.

         There is very little recorded of the events in Abilene from 1861 to the coming of the railroad in 1867. No doubt its development during this period was much the same as other Western frontier towns during the Civil War period. The town was rustic—still comprised mainly of log buildings. There were no streets. Spaces between the houses were overgrown with prairie grass. The frontier stores were cluttered and dirty, which created a problem in sanitation.  

         The arrival of a stage or the passing of an emigrant party down the trail brought out the whole populace to find out who was aboard, whence they came, and whither bound, eager for any bit of rehashed or revised news from some other point. Eastbound travelers brought news of some late Indian depredation, and those who were westbound brought word of some more or less recent happening of the war which was then in progress. The summers brought out the loiterers. The winters were largely open and agreeable, but there were frequent bleak winds and occasional blizzards. The hunting expeditions after buffalo, antelope, wild turkey, and prairie chicken served the double purpose of providing a diversion and a source of meat. 

 Loading cattle on the Kansas Pacific in Abilene - 1867

This was the Abilene that Joseph G. McCoy found when he came west on the Kansas Pacific railway in 1867 in search of a spot on that line which could be used as a shipping point for the herds of Texas cattle being driven north. He wrote:

Abilene in 1867 was a very small, dead place, consisting of about one dozen log huts, low, small, rude affairs, four-fifths of which were covered with dirt for roofing; indeed, but one shingle roof could be seen in the whole city. The business of the burg was conducted in two small rooms, mere log huts, and of course the inevitable saloon, also in a log hut, was to be found.


 Drovers Hotel - 1867

 That same year, Joseph G. McCoy bought 250 acres of land north and east of the town. On his land, he built a hotel, the Drovers Cottage (also known as Drover’s Cottage, although the name painted on the side of the building did not include an apostrophe). 

 


 Mr. McCoy also built stockyards large enough to hold 2,000 heads of cattle and a stable for the drover’s horses. The Kansas Pacific put in a switch at Abilene that enabled the cattle cars to be loaded and sent on to their destinations. He encouraged Texas cattlemen to drive their herds to his stockyards.

         The first twenty carloads left September 5, 1867, en route to Chicago, Illinois. McCoy being familiar with the meat market. The stockyards shipped 35,000 head that first year.

         From there, the town grew quickly and became the first cow town of the West. It became the largest stockyards west of Kansas City, Kansas. 


 1873 Chisholm Trail

         The herds of cattle were driven from Texas north on the Chisholm Trail. From 1867 to 1871, the north end of the trail ended in Abilene. Abilene became the largest stockyard and cattle shipping point west of Kansas City, Kansas. The Chisholm Trail also brought other travelers, which made Abilene one of the wildest towns in the West. 


(This 1887 Map of Abilene shows a more-developed town that what existed in 1867-71. The black wavy line on the left is Mud Creek. The vertical red line shows Cedar Street, the section north of the tracks not being very developed and the saloon district being south of the tracks . Texas Street ran parallel to the railroad tracks. The circle shows the general area of the Drovers Cottage on the south of the tracks and the stockyard on the north of the tracks.)

         At first, the section of Abilene along Cedar and Texas Streets that catered to the Texas cowboys had no law enforcement, to speak of. The more stable residents of the original town of Abilene did not consider it their problem. However, by 1869, it became apparent to the law-abiding citizens that municipal organization was necessary to bring order to the unruly blocks east of their city in order for the violence not to spill over and disrupt their lives. On September 3, I869, a group of citizens bearing a petition signed by forty-three citizens appeared before the court of Cyrus Kilgore, probate judge of Dickinson County, Kansas, "praying for incorporation." The petition was granted, and the citizens chose a group of trustees to manage the city until elections could be held.

         This took place toward the end of the 1869 cattle season. Other than pass a few basic ordinance, the town did little as far as enforcing law and order.

         In the spring of 1870, the board of trustees met again. Thirty-two saloons were licensed, closing hours were established, houses of ill-fame in the city limits were outlawed, and an attempt was made to recognize and enforce laws against the more serious crimes. City offices, including the city marshal position, were created. Ordinances were published. 

         Next month, my post will be about law enforcement in Abilene during the days of the cattle drives.


        
On April 3, I871, the first charter election was held to elect a mayor and council. J. G. McCoy, the cattle magnate in Abilene, was elected mayor. The main issue in the election revolved around the degree of control that should be attempted over the vice and immorality brought into Abilene by the Texas cattle trade.

                                                               Joseph McCoy

         On May 1, 1871, a comprehensive plan of licensing all business houses in Abilene was included in an ordinance by the city council. This was an attempt to force the transient businesses that catered to and thrived from the Texas cattle trade to help defray the high cost of law enforcement. The city council became deadlocked over the amount of the fee they should charge, which led to several disputes among them.

         In 1871, more than 5,000 cowboys herded between 600,000 and 700,000 cows through town. However, other forces in the town and county would soon spell the end for this as a cattle shipping point.


          Farmers, who had homesteaded the land around Abilene and who were a more stable, year-round population, opposed the Texas Longhorns from entering Dickenson County. The Longhorns brought with them a tick that was deadly to their domestic cattle. Increasingly, they began to dominate the politics. In February 1872, a petition was circulated and signed by about 80% of the population who wanted an end, not only to the dangers of the tick infestation, but to the evils brought by the Texas cowboys and the saloons, gamblers, and prostitutes who catered to them. They were requested to take their cattle elsewhere.

         McCoy could see the writing on the wall. Although in 1872, it was the town of Ellsworth who enjoyed being the biggest Texas cattle drive destination, Mr. McCoy dismantled his Drovers Cottage and rebuilt it in the town of Newton, which became the preferred destination after Ellsworth.

         Abilene did not die with the loss of the cattle trade. The agriculture trade grew and stabilized the town. However, its days as a rowdy and lawless cow town were at an end.


I included Abilene, Kansas, in several of my books.

 

In Mail Order Lorena, the time period is 1865-66 and the setting is primarily the Butterfield Overland Despatch stage station in Ellsworth, Kansas. However, my hero often rides the stagecoach east to stay at the station in Abilene and spend time in a fictional town saloon, where he meets Lorena. You may find the book description and link by CLICKING HERE.

 

 

In Otto’s Offer, in 1868, Otto Atwell was among those farmers who homesteaded land just outside of Abilene. Although not part of this book’s plot, he would have been among those who opposed the Texas cowboys bringing up the long horn cattle that were host to the ticks that brought deadly disease to domestic cattle. You may find the book description and link by CLICKING HERE.

  

My most recent book, Abilene Gamble, is set in the summer of 1871 Abilene, after the town has experienced a great deal of growth and settlement. As a lawyer and investigator/bounty hunter who carries the scars from his time fighting in the Civil War, my hero, Harry Bradford, found his niche in this rough-and-tumble town. You may find the book description and link by CLICKING HERE. (Much of this blog post was taken from the Author Notes at the back of this book.)

Sources:

https://abilenekansas.org/abilenes-history

https://oldabilenetown.org/tim-hersey

https://www.kshs.org/p/abilene-first-of-the-kansas-cow-towns/12833

https://abilenekansas.org/blog/2019/12/18/area-history

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abilene,_Kansas